Italian

Danieli's (Danni'aili)
Cuisine
Italian
Hours
Mon-Fri 11:30am-2pm and 6-10pm; weekends 6-10pm
Address
Jianguo Men Wai Dajie 21
Location
On 2nd floor of St. Regis Hotel, Chaoyang East
Transportation
Metro: Jianguo Men (120/211); walk east 2 blocks and take left on Ritan Dong Lu
Phone
010/6460-6688, ext. 2441 or 1440
Prices
Main courses „100-„250 ($12-$31)
Credit Cards
AE, DC, MC, V

Tuscan-themed Danieli's is potentially the finest Italian restaurant in the city, with a tremendous wine list; a pleasing, well-lit interior; and an extensive menu that borrows elements from all parts of the boot. The emphasis is on authenticity rather than innovation, part of an attempt not to scare inexperienced Chinese diners, but there is plenty here to satisfy Western epicures.

Among the best choices are the tomato and artichoke risotto with a generous sprinkling of truffle oil, and the tender, very flavorful rack of lamb seasoned with fresh thyme. As with the Astor Grill (another St. Regis restaurant), the waitstaff can be overzealous when not busy but is otherwise competent.

Quality of food aside, the restaurant seems somewhat uncomfortable in its present guise, and the head chef has toyed with the idea of toning down food presentation and place settings to give it a more casual feel. Danieli's will be even better when it decides what it wants to be.

Da Giorgio
Cuisine
Italian
Hours
Daily 10:30am-2:30pm and 5:30-10:30pm
Address
Dong Chang'an Jie 1
Location
Inside the Grand Hyatt, Dongcheng (City Center)
Phone
010/8518-1234
Prices
Main courses „90-„195 ($11-$24)
Credit Cards
AE, DC, MC, V

Within the Grand Hyatt, this small restaurant with modest Italianate decor is in cozy contrast to the general grandeur of the hotel. Restaurants serving foreign cuisine in Beijing tend to tone down the flavors so as not to frighten away still unadventurous and unsophisticated richer Chinese, but if that's been done here, it's only served to release the honest flavors of the ingredients on a concise but well-executed menu.

The beef carpaccio has a liquid freshness, the minestrone (with rosemary and basil pesto) is far more subtle than the hearty stew it can sometimes become, and the roasted Atlantic salmon steak with mushrooms and artichoke basil pesto sauce is meaty and filling.

Overall, the tone is rustic, and the portion sizes are correspondingly hearty.