Grandma's Kitchen (Zumu de Chufang)
Hours
Daily 8:30am-11:30pm
Address
Xiushui Nan Jie 11A
Location
Behind Friendship Store, Chaoyang Northeast
Transportation
Metro: Jianguo Men (120/211); walk east 3 blocks, then north half a block
Reservations
Reservations recommended on weekends
Phone
010/6503-2893
Prices
Main courses ¥20-¥58 ($2.50-$7.20)
Credit Cards
Not accepted

An extension of three cafes in Chengdu, Grandma's has been packed from day one, despite opening in the middle of Beijing's SARS hysteria. You'll find generous portions of home-cooked fare served up in a Southern homestead atmosphere.

The Texas-size hamburgers are as substantial as you'd expect, you can stand your spoon up in the milkshakes, and the apple pies are perfectly caramelized with just the right amount of cinnamon. Located south of the Ritan diplomatic area, in a city short on Western breakfasts, Grandma has a captive audience in the morning. Booking for breakfast will soon be essential.

There are communication problems between the kitchen and the waitstaff -- missing orders and cold french fries are common -- but hopefully this will be ironed out.

Pan Asian

Café Sambal
Cuisine
Malaysian
Hours
Daily 12:30pm till late
Address
Doufu Chi Hutong 43
Location
Northwest of the Bell Tower, Xi Cheng Qu, Back Lakes & Dong Cheng
Transportation
Walk south along Jiu Gu Lou Dajie and take the 5th street on the left; it's the 1st building on the left. Metro: Gu Lou (217)
Phone
010/6400-4875
Prices
Meal for 2 ¥250-¥400 ($31-$50)
Credit Cards
Not accepted

The race to serve Beijing's best Malaysian nosh currently has only one contestant, but it will take something extraordinary to top this. Sambal embraces and surpasses all the cliches of a chic Beijing eatery -- a cozy courtyard house decorated with antique and modern furnishings, a sophisticated boss (Cho Chong Gee), relaxed service from a handsome waitstaff, and a well-balanced wine list.

And then there's the food, prepared by a charming chef from Kuala Lumpur. You'll need to call a day in advance for the spectacular double-braised Australian lobster in nyonya sauce, or the chili curry crab. Try the fried four-sided bean with cashew nut sauce, the divinely creamy king prawn with yellow sauce, or the special lamb curry served in a thick, spicy coconut sauce.

Don't miss the signature dish, Kapitan chicken, a mildly spicy dish with a nutty aftertaste, said to have been invented when Chinese migrants reached Penang during the Ming dynasty. Your life won't be the same after sampling the exquisitely marinated deep-fried banana.