Cooking may be more varied in Hong Kong than anywhere else in the world: Cantonese cuisine is joined by foods from other parts of China and nearly every other culinary region on earth. The deeply rooted Chinese love of good food extends here to French, Italian, Portuguese, British, Spanish, Australian, Japanese, Indian, Thai, Vietnamese, Korean, Mexican, and specialty American fare.
Be advised, however, that Hong Kong's extraordinary culinary vitality is offset by some of Asia's worst restaurants. It's possible to find a hole-in-the-wall with surprisingly exciting food, but don't expect any old neighborhood restaurant to turn out dreamy dishes.
Don't be shocked when you get your bill. You'll be charged for everything, including tea, rice, and even those side dishes placed automatically on every table, which are often mistaken for complimentary snacks. Tips are generally expected, even if the bill includes a service charge.
Restaurants in Hong Kong tend to change menus as often as people change their clothes, following the season and the clientele's tastes. Don't be surprised if your favorite dish is no longer on the list the second time you visit.
Hong Kongers regularly patronize hotel restaurants, bars, and coffee shops. Service is usually better, and the quality of the food more consistent, than in many independent restaurants.
Reservations are always a good idea; they're often essential at lunchtime (between 12 and 2) or at dinnertime (between 7 and 10) on weekends. Unless otherwise noted, all restaurants are open daily for lunch and dinner.
Prices are per person, not including a 10% service charge. Prices are in USD.

American
Dan Ryan's 114 Pacific Place, tel. 2845-4600

This popular bar is often standing-room-only, so call ahead for a table. Apart from beer, the menu offers a smattering of international dishes -- pasta and the like -- but Dan Ryan is better known for its great burgers and soups served in bread bowls. It's simple, rib-sticking stuff, and Dan Ryan's serves it up without fuss or formality. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. $13 - $38

Napa Kowloon Shangri-La, 64 Mody Rd., tel. 2721-2111

Perched on the top floor of the Kowloon Shangri-La, Napa gives Pacific Rim foods the full California treatment. Glittering harbor views, soft live jazz and blues, and friendly waiters create a cozy yet smart ambience. The lunch menu has a section of "lite" items; dinner focuses on fish, fowl, and meat. Seared scallops and foie gras in a sherry vinaigrette is a tantalizing starter, while crisp-skinned salmon with asparagus, Portobello mushrooms, and a cabernet reduction lives up to its promise as a main course. Succulent saddle of Australian lamb with a mushroom flan, wilted spinach, and white-cheese pesto is a good choice for carnivores. To enhance your dinner, choose from the wide selection of California wines. AE, DC, MC, V. $13 - $64

The Bostonian American Bar & Restaurant Great Eagle Hotel, 8 Peking Rd., tel. 2375-1133 Ext. 2070

It's a bit hard to find, but the Bostonian is worth the effort. Fun yet respectable, it's popular for both business and pleasure. Each table has crayons and a paper tablecloth to keep you busy, and the walls are adorned with previous diners' artworks. Seafoodies should not miss the lobster Thermidor -- a perfectly cooked crustacean smothered in delicious cheese sauce on a bed of mashed potatoes. Before you make up your mind, though, have a look at the flying seafood tray, piled with sumptuous seafood from sea bass to Dover sole, fresh oysters to Dungeness crabs. A wide selection of American wines ensures a match for your meal, and the staff is helpful and friendly. The bar upstairs serves sandwiches at lunchtime and tapas and cocktails in the evening. AE, DC, MC, V. $38 - $64

Chinese
American Peking Restaurant 20 Lockhart Rd., tel. 2527-7770

Full of red and gold fixtures, this overdecorated restaurant has been a gastronomic Hong Kong fixture for more than 40 years. Favorites here include hot-and-sour soup, fried and steamed dumplings, and, in the winter, delicious hot pots; you might also try the excellent beggar's chicken (so called because it's cooked in clay and lotus leaves), minced pigeon, and, of course, Peking duck. Each meal begins with complimentary peanuts and sliced cucumber in vinegar -- perfect for practicing chopstick skills. The name American Peking is fitting: the authenticity of the food is questionable, but it caters well to those unaccustomed to Chinese food. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. $13

Bistro Manchu 33 Elgin St., SoHo, tel. 2536-9218

This smart little bistro serves up heart-warming, soul-soothing, and stomach-filling Manchurian cuisine. Instead of the typical Chinese meat and vegetable dumplings, check out the option with tomato and egg fillings; you will be surprised how good this combination works in the light and delicate dumpling wrap. Meat lovers will not be able to resist the stir-fried lamb with scallions. Accompany the hearty dishes with your choice from the great selection of Chinese tea. Reservations recommended. AE, DC, MC, V. $13 - $38