Shek O Chinese and Thailand Seafood Restaurant 303 Shek O Village, (main intersection, tel. 2809-4426

Nothing particularly stands out about the food or aesthetics here, but this place is a legend -- it's just such fun. On summer weekends, people arrive en masse and sit for hours despite the relentless heat. The hybrid menu features plenty of rice, noodle, and fish dishes. The tom yung kung (spicy prawn and coconut soup) is guaranteed to bring color to your cheeks; the green curry is a good chicken choice; and the honey-fried squid is amazing. The festive ambience is a real experience, and you'll eat heartily without breaking the bank. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. $13

Spices The Repulse Bay, 109 Repulse Bay Rd., tel. 2812-2711

Alfresco dining is something of a rarity in Hong Kong, but at Spices you can dine on classic Asian food surrounded by lawns and patios. (If the weather fails, there's an elegant interior.) The menu here ranges from India to Japan and back again. Singaporean satay of beef, chicken, and lamb and Indonesian kuwe udang goreng (deep-fried prawn cakes) make good starters. Main courses include Indian tandoori plates, Vietnamese fried soft-shell crabs, Japanese beef shogayaki (pan-fried fillet with sake sauce), and Malaysian char kwayt teow (seafood fried noodles). Curry lovers can try different versions, with varying degrees of spice, from India, Vietnam, Singapore, and Indonesia; these involve mutton, duck, chicken, seafood, and even oxtail. Mop them up with one of several Indian breads. AE, DC, MC, V. $13 - $64

The Peak Lookout 121 Peak Rd., tel. 2849-1000

Built in 1888 as a workshop for tram engineers, this colonial granite building was transformed into a cafe-restaurant in 1989. The outdoor dining area is a treat for alfresco enthusiasts: on a sunny day or clear night the views over Lamma Channel are incredible. When the clouds roll in (as they often do), the terrace is a different place, with mist-shrouded trees silhouetted in subtle lighting, candles glowing softly on the tables, and coal fires to keep you warm. Waiters are aloof and smartly casual. Favorites include Thai duck curry, succulent satays, and a nightly barbecue. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. $13 - $64

Seafood
Chung Thai Food Restaurant and Sea Food 93 Man Nin St., tel. 2792-1481

As its name suggests, this seafood restaurant serves both Chinese and Thai cooking, prepared separately by chefs of both nationalities. Those with a taste for spice can try the Thai fried crabs with curry or fried prawns with chili; otherwise, pick any seafood you like from the store next door, and the chef will prepare it to order. Steaming is highly recommended for fresh fish, as it preserves the taste and tender texture. There's also a Seafood Shop (5 Siu Yat Bldg., Hoi Pong Sq., 2792-8172). MC, V. $13 - $64

Island Seafood & Oyster Bar Shop C, Towning Mansion, tel. 2915-7110

Tucked into a Causeway Bay shopping area that was once Hong Kong's Food Street, this laid-back spot is drawing foodies back. The deliciously fresh oysters come in several varieties from around the world. Pick them as creamy or firm as you like from the oyster bar, where the staff will happily make suggestions and serve the sexy mollusk on ice or cooked hot to your taste. (Note that eating raw shellfish can put you at risk for hepatitis.) Read the chalkboard for daily specials, which are bound to include seafood and meat. AE, DC, MC, V. $13 - $64

Jumbo Floating Restaurant Shum Wan Pier Path, tel. 2553-9111

This is it -- the floating restaurant you see on postcards. A huge, pagoda-shape building that burns with a thousand lights at night, it floats replete with a throne for all those visiting emperors. It sounds more like a sightseeing outing than a meal, and indeed it's one of the most interesting dining experiences you may have in Hong Kong. Jumbo comprises three floating outlets -- Tai Pat, Sea Palace, and Jumbo Palace, where you eat "on board." Naturally enough, seafood is the draw, and it's made the old-fashioned way: you peer into the fish tank, pick your prey, and it shows up on your table in minutes. (There's also an ŕ la carte menu.) You get here by shuttle ferry; ferries depart every 2-3 minutes from Shum Wan Pier, every 15 minutes from Aberdeen Pier. AE, DC, MC, V. $13 - $64