Lobster Bar Island Shangri-La, lobby level, tel. 2877-3838

The giant tropical-fish tank at the entrance sets the scene. As the name suggests, lobster is the main event here and is used in soups, appetizers, and various entrees. The lobster bisque is creamy yet light, with great chunks of meat at the bottom. Lobster tartare, served with cucumber salad and two good-size lobster claws, fills a starter plate with fresh, succulent shredded lobster meat. For a lighter main course, try the angel-hair pasta with yabbies (a smaller Australian cousin of the lobster). Indecisive diners will enjoy the platter inlcuding half a lobster Thermidor, whole grilled langoustine, prawn, baked oyster, creamy scallops, crab cakes, and black cod. Meats dishes are also available. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. $38 - $64

Oyster & Wine Bar Sheraton Hotel & Towers, 20 Nathan Rd., tel. 2369-1111

Oyster lovers should definitely consider a trip to the top of Sheraton Hotel & Towers. Diners can slurp their way through 32 types of oysters freshly flown in from around the world and kept alive on ice at the huge oyster bar. Prepared dishes include the rack of baby lamb and lobster bouillabaisse. A selection of wine from around the world is stored in wine cellars that line the walls. The friendly waiters will happily show you the day's menu on a colorfully decorated chalk board. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch. $38 - $64

Tung Kee Seafood Restaurant 96-102 Man Nin St., tel. 2792-7453

Here you just order whatever you want from the deep blue ocean: lobsters, slipper lobsters, clams, abalone, crabs, prawns, and fish of all kinds are available. Crustaceans and fish are quickly cooked by steaming and wok-frying, and are presented whole. A quick look inside the tank is better than a marine biology lesson. Pick your favorites, and leave the rest to the chef. AE, DC, MC, V. $13 - $64

Yü Regent Hotel, 18 Salisbury Rd., tel. 2721-1211

You're welcomed at this restaurant by denizens of the deep, peering out from a huge, curving aquarium. Yü is a seafood lover's dream. Start with some oysters -- served on ice, glazed with champagne sauce, or prepared a variety of other ways. Lobster bisque and sauteed jumping shrimp with chili and pepper are perfect hot appetizers. A dozen or so fresh catches of the day are cooked to suit either Asian or Western tastes, and some specialties combine the two, such as sauteed Boston lobster with black beans and fine noodles. The atmosphere is entirely laid-back, making this a great place to enjoy a drink and fresh seafood with an unobstructed view of the harbor and, at night, the stunning light show on the island side. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch. $64

Thai
Golden Orchid Thai Restaurant 12 Lung Kong Rd., tel. 2383-3076

Only a five-minute walk from the former Kai Tak Airport, Golden Orchid serves some of the best and most innovative Thai cuisine in the territory. The curried crab and the seafood curry with pumpkin are excellent. Proactive eaters should not miss mein come, a kind of Thai leaf served with little bowls of spices and fixings such as fried coconut, peanuts, garlic, chili, lime, and dried shrimp. Wrap your choices in the leaf and delve in. The steamed seafood cakes, served in Thai stone pots, are also delicious. Try the roasted pork-neck slices, prawn cakes, and rice with olives. Unlike most restaurants on the planet, the Golden Orchid neither levies a service charge nor accepts tips, making this already cheap place a major bargain. MC, V. $13