Dim Sum 63 Sing Woo Rd., tel. 2834-8893

Most restaurants in Hong Kong serve dim sum only at lunchtime, but this elegant breaks with tradition and serves it from dusk till dawn. The menu goes beyond Cantonese morsels, from the essential har gau (steamed shrimp dumpling) to northern choices such as chili prawn dumplings, Beijing onion cakes, and steamed buns. The creative lobster bisque and abalone dumplings are popular picks. Lunch reservations are not taken on weekends, so there's always a long line. Arrive early, or admire the antique telephones and posters of old Chinese advertisements while you wait. Happy Valley is near Causeway Bay, but not near the MTR; take a tram or a cab to get here. AE, DC, MC, V. $13 - $38

Dumpling Shop 138 Wanchai Rd., tel. 2836-0000

If the Marco Polo story is true, you can get a taste of the forerunner of spaghetti bolognese at this clean and smart Beijingese food shop. Thick, northern-Chinese noodles arrive in a bowl accompanied by a rich minced-pork sauce. Even a small portion is enough for two, so be careful not to overorder. Buns and dumplings, also Beijingese specialties, appear in abundance, as does the pan-fried spring-onion cake. The staff is friendly and ready to assist. Leave room for the sweet bean ball -- looking for all the world like a doughnut, it consists of sweet red-bean paste encased in a light dough made of fluffy egg whites. DC, MC, V. $13

Dynasty Renaissance Harbour View, 1 Harbour Rd., tel. 2802-8888

Beige tones, mirrors, and unobtrusive fixtures create a subdued Cantonese environment and provide a contrast to the modernity outside the windows: neon signs pushing familiar brand names and the Wanchai Ferry traversing the harbor. The menu is extensive, and includes luxurious abalone and bird's nest along with a variety of meat, seafood, and vegetable dishes. The cold chicken marinated in yellow wine and the deep fried tofu are delectable starters. The roast pigeon marinated in champagne sauce is wonderfully prepared, with crispy skin and flavorful meat. (It's not really marinated in champagne, but in a mixture of seasonings and sauces that enhance the flavor of the meat.) Vegetarians may be intrigued by the braised bean curd with gluten puffs, straw mushrooms, and chestnuts. To finish things off, chilled sago cream with mango and grapefruit is the perfect sweet. AE, DC, MC, V. $38 - $64

Forum 485 Lockhart Rd., tel. 2891-2516

Chef Yeung Koon Yat and his internationally known Ah Yat abalone are the attractions here. The ablaone's price is steep, but this is the place to have it if you want to experience this luxurious Oriental treat: it's boiled and braised to perfection and served with a rich brown sauce. Shark's-fin soup and bird's nest are the other two stars of the menu, which also features several more affordable Cantonese dishes. AE, DC, MC, V. $64

Great Shanghai Restaurant 26-36 Prat Ave., tel. 2366-8158

Great Shanghai is not esteemed for its decor (which is old and dingy), but it's perfect for those who prefer the bold flavors of Shanghainese food to the more delicate ones of local Cantonese fare. You may not be ready for the sea blubber or braised turtle with sugar candy, but do try one of the boneless eel dishes, the Shanghai-style yellow fish soup, the beggar's chicken, or the excellent spiced soy duck. The Peking chicken in this establishment is as good as those from any Beijing restaurant. AE, DC, MC, V. $13 - $38

Happy Garden Noodle & Congee Kitchen 76 Canton Rd., tel. 2377-2603 or 2377-2604

For a taste of down-to-earth Hong Kong fare without the awkwardness of trespassing in Chinese-only local joints, Happy Garden is the place to go. Bright and clean, with helpful waitresses and an English menu, this small place is ideal a typical local breakfast, an easy lunch, and even a big dinner. A popular morning combination is Cantonese congee and a glutinous rice dumpling wrapped in lotus leaf. A bowl of wonton soup or a plate of fried rice or noodles makes a simple but satisfying lunch. For dinner, the diced chicken with cashew nuts and sweet-and-sour pork are delicious Cantonese staples. No credit cards. $13