Nice Fragrance Vegetarian Kitchen 105-107 Thomson Rd., tel. 2838-3608 or 2838-3067

Ingredients as simple as bean curd, mushrooms, and taro are whipped into unexpected and delicious forms here. Don't be surprised to see a whole "fish" on the next table: taro paste molded into a fish shape and deep-fried is one of the most popular dishes in Chinese vegetarian cooking. Crispy on the outside and succulent inside, the dish is served with a tangy sweet-and-sour sauce. Assorted vegetables wrapped in a sheet of bean curd form a flavorful combo that might surprise your palate, and a delicious fried rice with both tomato and white sauce will please the indecisive. Vegetarian dim sum and a snack counter at the door round out the offerings. AE, DC, MC, V. $13

Shanghai Shanghai Ritz-Carlton Hotel, 3 Connaught Rd., tel. 2869-0328

Art Deco touches, stained glass, discreet private rooms, and wooden booths create a nostalgic 1930s Shanghai look here. The menu ranges from simple midnight snacks and cold appetizers, such as mock goose and smoked fish, to pricey shark's-fin soup. After 9 PM the lights dim, a chanteuse comes onstage to croon Mandarin tunes, and a song-request book is placed at every table. It's imperative you make reservations at least a week in advance, as this intimate restaurant has become a hot spot for affluent Chinese nostalgic for the good old days. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. $38 - $64

Spring Moon The Peninsula, Salisbury Rd., tel. 2315-3160

While the decor says old Shanghai -- antique-style teak floors with Oriental rugs, oak paneling, stained glass, dim lighting, a traditional tea-leaf cabinet -- the cuisine does not. Waiters prepare drunken prawns right at your table, subtly infusing them with the aroma of Shaoxing wine. Braised abalone in oyster sauce, with freshly cooked vegetables, is rich in flavor and melts in your mouth. The popular roast pigeon flavored with cinnamon is another winner. A team of tea masters (tea sommeliers, if you will) can help you complement your meal with one of 20 different teas. AE, DC, MC, V. $38 - $64

Steam and Stew Inn 21-23 Tai Wong St. E, tel. 2529-3913

This hole in the wall with simple decor dishes out healthy, home-style Cantonese cooking -- it serves red rice and uses no MSG, both rare in Hong Kong. Go for the steamed fish and eggplant casserole (one of the most popular items) or one of the deep-fried dishes, of which they have a wide variety, including an irresistible deep-fried eel. Another find is the double-boiled chicken and ginseng, which helps lower the body heat. If you're concerned about cholesterol, you can request preparation with egg whites rather than whole eggs. There's also a seasonal menu, and dim sum at lunchtime. This gem was opened by a group of young professionals who craved inexpensive, healthy Chinese food, and it draws a young crowd. MC, V. No lunch Sun. $13 - $38

T'ang Court Great Eagle Hotel, 8 Peking Rd., tel. 2375-1133 Ext. 2250

Bedecked with golden silk drapes and contemporary sculptures, T'ang Court, spread over two floors connected by a spiral staircase, is one of the most elegant Chinese restaurants on the Kowloon peninsula. Its distinctly modern look is offset by its traditional Chinese cuisine -- the home-style Cantonese soups will make you feel like you're dining with a Chinese family. After covering its bases, however, the menu gets creative: baked blue-point oysters with port wine make an unfamiliar and beautiful appetizer. The baked salty chicken (half or whole) has delicately flavored meat and a gorgeously crispy skin. Desserts are just as irresistible: try the steamed pumpkin dumplings with egg-yolk cream. Lunchtime dim sum, from steamed shrimp dumplings to barbecue-pork buns, are real delicacies. AE, DC, MC, V. $38 - $64