Tso Choi Koon 17-19A Nga Tsin Wai Rd., tel. 2383-7170

If you're of delicate constitution, or insist on fine food, pass on this home-style Cantonese restaurant. Tso Choi (Rough Dishes) is not everyone's cup of tea. Tripe lovers and haggis fans, however, might like to try the Chinese versions of some of their favorites: fried pig tripe, fried pig brain (served as an omelet), or double-boiled pig brain. The older Hong Kong generation still likes this stuff; younger folks may demur. The wary can opt for creamy congee, fried chicken, or a fish fillet. No credit cards. $13 - $38

Wu Kong Alpha House, 23-33 Nathan Rd., tel. 2366-7244

The small entrance to this unpretentious restaurant belies the big basement dining room where first-rate Shanghainese fare is offered at a reasonable price. The pigeon in wine sauce is an excellent appetizer to share. The subtle sauce prepared with Chinese wine adds a delicate aroma to the meat pieces arranged in the shape of the bird. Vegetarian goose with vegetables wrapped in crispy bean-curd skin is delicious and authentic. A whole fish smothered in a piquant sweet and vinegary sauce makes you want more. Leave some space for the deep-fried sweet ball whipped up with fluffy egg white and stuffed with red bean and banana -- a very good alternative to the doughnut you're missing. AE, DC, MC, V. $13 - $38

Ye Shanghai Level 3, Pacific Place, tel. 2918-9833

Ye Shanghai Subdued lighting and ceiling fans set a tranquil mood here. Start with some light appetizers such as chicken in spicy sauce or tea-leaf smoked egg. For an entree, try the fresh and flavorful stir-fried river shrimps, accompanied by strong dark vinegar, or the sauteed minced chicken with pine nuts, served with sesame pockets. Desserts include the Shanghai deep-fried eggwhite stuffed with banana and mashed red-bean paste and the Japanese-inspired black-sesame ice cream. Reserve early for the comfortable booth seats or the window tables. The attached shop next door, Xiao Shanghai (Small Shanghai), sells all sorts of snacks, tea, pickles, and sweets. AE, DC, MC, V. $13 - $38

Yung Kee 32-40 Wellington St., tel. 2522-1624

Convenient to both hotels and businesses, this massive eatery attracts a varied clientele -- from office workers to visiting celebrities -- all of whom receive the same cheerful, high-energy service. Roast goose is a specialty, its skin beautifully crisp. Those with adventurous palates must check out Yung Kee's famous thousand-year-old eggs with ginger. The preserved blackish eggs literally melt in your mouth. Seafood fanciers should try sauteed fillet of pomfret with chili and black-bean sauce, braised garoupa (grouper), or one of the many shark's-fin soups. AE, DC, MC, V. $13 - $64

Zen The Mall, Pacific Place One, tel. 2845-4555

This upscale nouveau Cantonese eatery has the same owner as the ultrachic London restaurants of the same name. Thinly sliced pig's ears are one of the more unusual specialties, and the Peking duck is delicious (give a full day's notice if you want to try it). The more standard Cantonese dishes are quite delicately prepared and presented. Service is flawless, and the decor is contemporary, with dramatic hanging lights and a central waterfall. AE, DC, MC, V. $38 - $64

Zhong Guo Song 6 Wo On La., tel. 2810-4040

Eat delicious home-style Cantonese food in a hectic, but clean and friendly environment. The restaurant packs diners into close quarters where they chow down heartily on dishes such as braised garoupa (grouper) with bean curd and minced pork, scrambled eggs with little white fish, and chicken in soybean sauce. Increase your carbohydrate intake with generous portions of a healthy fried rice with dried scallops and egg whites. No gimmicks here, and the price is reasonable. Lunch hour gets very busy, so go early to avoid a wait. No credit cards. $13

Contemporary
Felix Peninsula Hotel, Salisbury Rd., tel. 2366-6251

Felix sits on the 28th floor of The Peninsula and should be on every traveler's list of places to go, even if only for an overpriced drink at the bar. Love it or hate it, you can't deny that both the interior and the views are stunning. On busy nights there's a buzz that's hard to find anywhere else. The Hawaiian chef mixes interesting ingredients in bold ways. Sauteed foie gras comes on ginger-marinated figs, tangy triangles of wrapped duck arrive with a mango salsa, and an intriguing salad of palm hearts and spinach is served with poached prawns. Grilled veal with a wasabi gratin gets the juices flowing, and unusual items such as moonfish turn up in season. Watch people's expressions when their desserts arrive. AE, DC, MC, V. $64