M at the Fringe South Block, 2 Lower Albert Rd., tel. 2877-4000

M sets itself apart with quirky yet classy decor and a seasonal menu that mixes Continental with Middle Eastern cuisine. Highly recommended are the creamy risotto with mussels, saffron, and chili; soft-shell crabs sauteed with crispy shallots and coriander; a Turkish vegetable platter, with delicately presented veggie portions from borek (cheese pastry pie) to courgette basti (molded zucchini); and juicy yet flaky baked cod with mashed potatoes, mussels, and mussel sauce. Those with a sweet tooth should not miss the Pavlova or tart Tatin. The set lunch is a good value. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. No lunch Sun. $64

Delicatessan
Wyndham Street Deli 36 Wyndham St., tel. 2522-3499

Feast your eyes on the deli counter before sampling its goodies -- fresh salads, sandwiches, quiches, breads, and cheeses that taste as good as they look, plus an array of bottled condiments from olive oil to preserves and sauces. You can't go wrong here, but the grilled vegetables and chicken pasta salads are highly recommended. Focaccia sandwiches and hot pastas also make light but satisfying meals. The deli is popular for lunch, so come before 1 or after 2 to avoid the Central office crowd, or aim for the quieter tables on the small patio in back. Leave room for one of the excellent tarts and cakes, such as lemon cheesecake. Reservations essential for lunch. AE, DC, MC, V. No dinner Sun. $13 - $38

Eclectic
Deli Lamma 36 Main St., tel. 2982-1583

This trendy but relaxed joint has more style than any other place on Lamma, with a designer bar made from old doors suspended from the ceiling on heavy chains and backgammon and chess boards painted on long tables along one wall, encouraging lazy afternoons with endless cups of coffee. Choose your fancy from two blackboards that will list up to seven choices of pasta and "world" food -- from Thai fish curry to British roasts and Indian curries. Your order comes with salad or yummy slabs of fresh garlic bread. Service can be a little too laid-back, but it's always friendly. ground floor. AE, DC, MC, V. $13

Grand Cafe Grand Hyatt Hotel, 1 Harbour Rd., tel. 2588-1234 Ext. 7273

Grander than you'd expect for a coffee shop, the Grand Cafe has an impressive menu. "Sandwich" is interpreted loosely here -- marinated lamb fillet on naan bread is one option -- and you can opt for quesadillas, pastas, and Asian-style noodles and rice in addition to free-range chicken, pan-fried veal chops, and oven-glazed king prawns. Start with a salad or a creative appetizer such as steamed asparagus with cold-pressed olive oil, poached egg, and shaved Parmesan. The Hainanese chicken rice with soup is as flavorful and ample as this traditional Chinese dish is meant to be. Desserts -- sorbets, tarts, and cakes -- are heavenly. The cafe draws locals, tourists, and a few resident sparrows, who flutter around and enjoy whatever crumbs diners will share with them. AE, DC, MC, V. $13 - $38

Jaspa's 13 Sha Tsui Path, tel. 2792-6388

What could be better than heading straight to a cozy restaurant after a day out in the countryside? Whether you sit out on the terrace or indoors, an enjoyable dining experience is guaranteed. Goat cheese parcel makes a delectable starter, and the tasty chicken fajitas arrives on your table sizzling hot. Pasta with bay bugs and lamb chop never disappoint. The hearty food and friendly service makes Jaspas a key culinary attraction in Sai Kung. AE, MC, V. $13 - $38