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Wining and Dining

Open Kitchen Hong Kong Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Road, tel. 2827-2923

This sit-down cafeteria in the Hong Kong Arts Centre has a large selection of good food and a nice view of the harbor. It's ideal for a pre- or post-performance meal or coffee. Flavors range from Malaysian laksa -- a rich and flavorsome noodle with bean curd, shrimp, fish ball, and spices -- and Indian curries to fresh Italian pasta and fish-and-chips, not to mention a nice selection of pastries for dessert or coffee. The spacious and quiet seating areas are always tidy, and you can linger and read here undisturbed. The balcony area offers an excellent view of the Victoria Harbour. AE, MC, V. $13 - $38

English
SoHo SoHo
9 Old Bailey St., SoHo, tel. 2147-2618

Traditional British dishes are given an eclectic twist at this popular spot. Homemade pâte served with toasted, melt-in-your-mouth focaccia is surprisingly light -- heavenly -- and seared scallops served on an arugula salad with a warm, fresh pesto sauce tempt the taste buds. Rack of lamb on mashed potatoes is a meatfest, and salmon and cod-fish cakes and spinach in a mild mushroom-and-saffron sauce find their way to many a table. The restaurant's crowds are a testament to its winning formula of high-quality, delicious food, helpful service, and value. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. $13 - $38

French
Gaddi's
Peninsula Hotel, Salisbury Rd., tel. 2366-6251 Ext. 3989

Crystal chandeliers and sparkling silverware evoke a classical French style, but the menu relies less on heavy sauces then it used to and concentrates more on perfecting nature's finest flavors. Raw marinated goose liver with white grapes set in Muscat aspic is sweet, rich, and verging on sinful. The intensely flavored chilled tomato soup with deep-fried scampi tails is refreshing. Bresse pigeon is cooked two ways -- the succulent red breast is skinned and poached, while the leg is pan-fried with the skin intact. End your meal with the cheese board. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, DC, MC, V. $64

Lucy's 64 Stanley Main St., Stanley, tel. 2813-9055

There's something incredibly comforting about Lucy's. The lighting is low, the decor is warm, and the waiters are friendly and casual, creating a generally laid-back atmosphere. The food is fresh and lovingly presented. Starters such as leek and Gruyère tart with delicious short pastry, and roasted vegetables with soft fresh mozzarella and cheese souffle, deserve a thumbs-up. A good selection of vegetarian dishes includes grilled zucchini and goat cheese stack. Lamb fillet with mushroom and rosemary is gorgeous, and duck breast on a bed of red cabbage and crunchy snow peas, enhanced by a red wine, is amazingly tender and sweet. Warm chocolate pudding with crème anglaise sends you home happy. MC, V. $13 - $64

Petrus

From the 56th floor of this five-star hotel, Petrus literally looks down on nearly all other Hong Kong restaurants in location and culinary standards. Featured are such traditional French dishes as green asparagus with Perigord truffle, deep-fried egg and Dublin Bay prawn, and Bresse pigeon. However, a closer inspection of the menu will reveal tastes from many parts of the world. Black cod comes with the Middle Eastern herb baharat and a lemon gravy. Bouillon of baby lobster with rock oysters is served with ginger, white cheese, and lime dumplings. Try the refreshing ginger ice cream for a light dessert. The extensive wine list is largely French. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. $64

Vong Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 5 Connaught Rd., tel. 2825-4028

With sister establishments in London and New York, Hong Kong's Vong sits glamorously at the top of the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, overlooking Central and the harbor. Black and gold feature heavily in the visuals, creating a sophistication that's only enhanced by curvaceous cutlery and chic crockery. Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten's Asian-inspired French cuisine fuses flavors from both worlds, such as foie gras with ginger and caramelized mango, and quail rubbed with Thai spices. Chicken marinated in lemongrass and served with sticky rice in a banana leaf is another favorite. Equally startling are the desserts, such as the warm Valhrona chocolate cake with coconut ice cream. Don't expect a quiet dinner, as the atmosphere is high-octane. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. $64



 
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