W's Entrecote 1303 Times Square, tel. 2506-0133

W's is a dining dictatorship: you can order steak, steak, or steak. Your only choices have to do with size and cooking time. Some call this the best steak in town, and the price includes a salad and as many fries as you can eat. The wine list is French, as is the interior: red-and-white checked tablecloths and French posters. Perched at the top of bustling Times Square, it's ideal for a protein- and carbohydrate-replenishment after battling the crowds. AE, DC, MC, V. $38 - $64

Italian
Fat Angelo's Shop 102 Elizabeth House, tel. 2574-6263

People cram into this place -- partly for the lively atmosphere, but mostly for the huge piles of pasta that weigh down the tables. Fat Angelo's is an Italian-American-style diner, its green-checked tablecloths and wooden chairs watched from the walls by prints of elder Italian commonfolk. Portions come in "big" (serving five-eight) and "not so big" (serving two-four). Favorites include the steamed green-lipped mussels in tomato sauce, massive meatballs, roast chicken with rosemary, and pastas of every kind. Linguini with pesto is hearty and filling. Meals come with a salad and a bread basket. Wine is served in water glasses. There are several other locations in Hong Kong. AE, DC, MC, V. $13 - $38

Grappa's 132 Pacific Place, tel. 2868-0086

Once inside this restaurant you can tune out its mall location and let the kindly staff serve you superb Italian food. The endless selection of pastas can complicate your decision, but nothing will disappoint. With excellent coffee and a range of bottled beers, Grappa's is equally useful for a quick pick-me-up or a post-shopping rendezvous. AE, DC, MC, V. $13 - $64

Grissini Grand Hyatt, 1 Harbour Rd., tel. 2588-1234

This restaurant is named after an Italian breadstick, and you'll be treated to the aroma of a long one baking in the oven as you walk in. The antipasto misto is a collection of delicately presented appetizers including tomato and fresh buffalo mozzarella -- some of the best in town. The Venetian green-pea risotto with glazed goose liver is simply divine. Entrees range from seafood to veal and lamb. Try the potato- and herb-filled rabbit saddle with black-truffle sauce or the osso bucco, a signature dish. The wine selection includes 1,000 bottles of mainly new- and old-world Italian wines. Sabayon parfait with almond praline and aged balsamic vinegar brings the meal to a climax. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. $64

Mistral Grand Stanford Inter-Continental Harbour View, 70 Mody Rd., tel. 2731-2878

You know you're on to a good thing when a customer is overheard asking for the same cheese they had when last visiting the restaurant more than a year ago. Such is Mistral's clientele, who are largely Italian nationals and expatriates in search of a true taste of home. The basement-level restaurant is packed every night. The cozy, candlelit interior buzzes with conversation, and the knowledgable and friendly restaurant manager is known by most of the customers. The large open kitchen serves a selection of exquisitely prepared delicacies, such as sea bass served with its skin deep-fried on an eggplant mash with rosemary, and potato souffle and chicken livers. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. $38 - $64

Nicholini's Conrad Hotel, Pacific Place, tel. 2521-3838

This elegant and florally decorated establishment regularly picks up awards for its fine food: it was crowned by the Italian Commissione Centrale as one of the world's finest Italian restaurants abroad in 1999. The menu features a wide range of pastas, fish, fowl and meat. Homemade black fettuccine with shrimp, clams, and asparagus tips is deliciously dark, while linguine with clams is a delight. The roast rack of lamb with green tomato compote is young enough to be sweet without overpowering the palate. For dessert, try a souffle. The wine list features wines especially hand-blended for Nicholini's. AE, DC, MC, V. $64